The
durability of the hardwood floors can
well be attached to the mere fact that
they are resistant to soaking up liquid spills, making the finishing of the hardwood floors tight.
A variety of finishes are available in the market,
and the type decided on depends on how much exposed the floor is, the traffic experienced as well as the desired stain
intensity.
Part 1
Preparing
the area
The
room to be finished is repaired such that it has to be devoid of any furniture,
wall hangings and window treatments. A continuing floor into the closet is emptied.
Get
rid of trims using a pry bar, into which a small wood is to be inserted to
provide an advantage and prevent damages.
The
room is to be protected from fumes and dust by using masking tape to seal all
openings. The lighting fixtures are to be covered with trash bags and secured
with masking tape. Dust and debris are vacuumed
out. Black sports due to water sports are to be treated with a 50-50 bleach
solution to eliminate any dark spots.
Part 2
Sanding
the floor
An
electric drum sander is the best tool to use in sanding. In case you do not
have, you can rent from a facility providing such services or borrow from a
neighbor.
The
machine is tilted back on the onset, and
once spinning begins, it gently lowered to the floor. Initially, the 20-60 grit rapper is the starting point, and this consequently rising as the job
continues.
Sanding
starts from the center of the room stretching outwards to the edges. It extends along the grain overlapping each pass by an inch for complete coverage. The natural
flow of the wood is in the grain, held together by a tough line.
The
process is to continue, consequently adjusting the grit to its finer gritting
of sand paper. For most hardwood, sanding can occur up to almost four times. Thorough cleaning is then necessary before the next sanding session
begins, taking care to vacuum and dry
clean.
After the sanding
activity, there is a need to ensure the
floor is clean. Dry cleaning with a wet cloth follows vacuuming. For staining purposes, no sawdust should be seen around
the floor.
Part 3
Staining
the floor
Staining
a floor can highlight the natural and real hues on the wooden floor as well as
giving the floor a unique, colorful twist
in the manner of appearance. Staining is however not necessary should the current color of the wooden floor be appealing
just as it is.
In
choosing the stain type, the quality should come before quantity in the decision-making.
Spending much on the gallon should not be much of a bother. When selecting the color, it is important to
bear in mind that the color on the charts is not necessarily the color that is
going to manifest itself on the floor, this because of fading because of
soaking into the wood.
Before
staining, a durable floor sealant is to be applied. It helps do away with
events of in even coverage. For the best product, soliciting the help of a
professional is necessary.
Stain the floor generously using a brush, roller or
rag. After about 15 minutes, using a piece of cloth,
the excess stain is removed. The amount of dye
to be used is put into a bucket and
thoroughly stirred. Additionally, this also
plays a part in even coverage. A thin
layer is good enough for faster drying,
unlike the thick stain layers.
For
target results, many additional coats can be added as much as desired. Let each
coat dry sufficiently. For water-based stains, 2-6 hours is the drying duration
and for the oil-based stains, 6-10 hours is the drying period.
A
polyurethane coat is worth considering. A softer finish is achievable with a natural protective barrier
based look and can make the floor shine beside
a semi-gloss finish. A paint roller is a necessary tool to apply the polyurethane followed by ample drying
time. For added shine and protection, an
extra coat would be required. Waxing and
buffing can replace the polyurethane.
Part 4
Waxing
and Buffing the Floor
Waxing
seals the wooden floor. Buffing gets rid of the excess wax. It's difficult
and consumes a lot of time, but
the effects on the floor are usually magnificent.
Waxing and buffing can come before staining, after and without staining at all.
Wax should be applied on the dry stained floor.
The
right wax is essential. For an untreated
floor, any finished product or wax
labeled hardwood can do. Some popular ones
include the beeswax and the polyurethane found in local stores. All these
products pose different appearances and as such, the selection should be a keen
process.
The
wax is to dry completely, and it could
take about 30 minutes or more based on the weather conditions. After about 10
minutes of natural drying, a fan can be used to enhance the drying. Pointing
the fan directly to the floor might interfere with the adhesion and thus
discouraged.
Buff
the floor. It involves eliminating wax on
the floor by use of a clean towel. Hand buffing is the way to go about it but
putting the towel around a mop can help work without having to go down on all
fours.
Once
it is done, the process is repeated at
least three times for perfect waxing results.
This necessary as it leads to
resilient layers protecting the floor. It also helps in the durability purposes
of the floor.
