Hardwood Flooring Installation 101: Moisture Testing

Establishing the moisture content is a critical component of quality control in hardwood flooring installation process. Therefore, every floor installer has to be informed of the amount of moisture content on subfloors and the wood.

Moisture humidistats and meters are the most important performance tools. If your installer does not have any of these tools, then they are obviously not aware of the significant relationship between moisture and wood. Continuing with an installation process constitutes the acceptance of the work site conditions by the installer or technician.

A wood-based subfloor should be within an average 2% moisture content of hardwood flooring. The average humidity of the house must be between thirty to fifty percent of solid wood and thirty-five to fifty-five percent for engineered hardwood before, during and after the installation job. A minimum reading of 10 moisture taken per 500 square feet at intervals of four0inches apart, recording the lowest and highest measurements.

There are numerous kinds and brands of moisture reading meters. The Pin-type readers penetrate into the wood to get the moisture reading. Non-destructive pin-less meters obtain moisture measurements without penetrating the wood. More often, the pin-less meter readers give readings, which are not accurate entirely, but provides a fair reading of moisture content. Meters that are more expensive on the other hand have adjustable settings thus more precise. However, glues in the subfloor affect them.

The only ideal and accurate method of measuring the moisture content of wood by weighing the piece of wood then let it dry until there is no moisture remaining in it. Weigh the dry piece, less the dry wood weight from the wet wood weight, and divided by the dry weight.

MC = [(initial weight- dry weight)/ dry weight] x 100%

Example: 400 grams - 370 grams = 30 grams, divided by 370 grams x 100 = 8.1percentage moisture content.

Hygrometers or humidistats are readily available for purchase. Buying and using two units will maintain accurate results. Take and note these readings throughout the job.

Before testing a concrete slab, it should be at least forty-five days old. Use a Calcium Chloride test, which is always accessible at The Big Box Stores. The moisture level readings obtained using the Calcium Chloride test must not exceed a maximum of 3lb per 1000 square feet.

The time duration taken by concrete to cure can cause delays on the job site. A wall or concrete slab in the best drying conditions with a large dehumidifier in operation will dry at approximately one-inch per month. Without these circumstances, the concrete wall or slab may only dry at a quarter inch per month. Concrete heals by hydration when moisture reacts with cement powder, providing the concrete its strength. However, the mixture always contains more water than is required for hydration reaction, becoming more prevalent with the utilization of lightweight aggregate that tends to retain moisture. In many floor slabs, there could be up to fifty gallons of extra water for every cubic yard of the pour. Using a dehumidifier with constant airflow over the plate surface will fasten the process. When the slab dries, it is recommended to use a concrete sealer or a recommended adhesive.

Radiant heating in such floors, therefore, must be turned on to a minimum temperature of 22 degrees, seven days prior, to eliminate residual moisture before installing wood flooring.

Hardwood Flooring Installation 101: Wood Subfloor Preparation

An ideal wood flooring installation starts with a proper subfloor preparation. If this is installed poorly, the subfloor will develop costly and time wasting problems down the line. Therefore, do not worry yourself with the time required, instead, focus on getting the job right. A DIY subfloor preparation needs time, but it is a simple process.  On that note, this will assist you to avoid cupping, squeaks, gapping, a loose floor and much more.

Before you commence, make sure you have gathered the necessary materials required as nothing slows down a job like numerous trips to the flooring outlet.

Tools and supplies for subfloor preparation:

• Circular saw 
• Hearing protection
• Eyeglasses or goggles
• Crowbar 
• Knee pads
• Respirator
• 15-pound asphalt felt paper
• Plywood or OSB
• Sander
• Gloves
• Nail gun/nails or screw gun/screws
• Broom or vacuum
• Moisture meter
• Hammer
• Staple gun or hammer stapler
• Chalk line and chalk
• 6-foot or longer straightedge

DIY subfloor preparation steps:

Step 1

Pull up the current flooring or carpeting.  In case you have a particle board as a layer, you need to remove it as well.  An upper layer of particleboard is a disappointment for all flooring options except floating floors.

Step 2

Check the joists for direction and spacing. Your joist should run perpendicular to your planking, and should be a maximum of nineteen inches apart.  If the distance between planking is above nineteen inches, then you will need to brace between the joints.

Step 3

After getting rid of the carpeting, tack strips, pad, and baseboards, your subfloor should be clearly visible.  Perform an excellent job when cleaning up any old glue or debris off your subfloor.  Counter-check for protruding squeaks and nails.  Install the new subfloor layer perpendicular to the already existing layer of subfloor.  Using chalk lines, mark on the new layer where joists located underneath.

Step 4

Tighten the new plywood. Either do this with a screw or nail gun. Space your fasteners at least six inches along panel ends, and at least twelve inches along intermediate support frames. On the other hand, the spacing between the panels should be about an eighth of an inch.

Step 5

Sand all the seams to make sure they connect smoothly to one another.  After that, check to ensure all fasteners are secure and not in any way sticking out.

Step 6

Check flatness all over the subfloor.  Use either a level or a straight two by four, pushing it across the floor to ensure there are no gaps.  It is not mandatory that the floor is level, but it must be flat. Your floor needs are flat to within a quarter inch over a ten-feet or three-sixteenth inch over six feet.

Step 7

It is equally important that you confirm the level of moisture in the subfloor. A damp subfloor may bring about buckles on your hardwood flooring. Record moisture measurements at different places all over the surface. In as much as you can record the moisture level and dates on the floor, it is also ideal to do the same in your job logs. A flooring expert can assist you in determining the maximum moisture that should be in your subfloor before you lay down your laminate or hardwood. Confirm the manufacturer manual for allowable moisture levels for the floor you are laying.

Step 8

Put down the moisture barrier. The sides should overlap a few inches so flooring will not snag when racked.  Staple down the paper.

Lastly, as your final step in the preparation of your plywood subfloor, remark the joists so the flooring expert can plan best on how to install the laminate or hardwood.

A Definitive Guide to Laying Laminate Flooring

Laminate flooring can change the look of your room. So what is stopping you? Learn to install new laminate flooring.

Materials Required:

• Laminate flooring
• A shoe molding.
• Finishing putty to match
• Self-stick rubber base, black color.
• Transition strips a.k.a thresholds
• Miter saw with laminate blade
• Foam underlayment if there is not a pre-attached tape.
• Brad gun/ hammer and brad nails
• 90 degree/right angle square
• A compressor
• Hammer
• Crowbar (small and flat)
• Chalk line
• Jigsaw
• Knife
• Pencil
• Rubber mallet

Benefits from Lamination Flooring

Laminate flooring is a composite material which is similar to plastic, so it is scratch-resistant. Also, it does not wear and tears like hardwood lasting nearly for decades. The Flooring has a click and locks together system, making it simpler to install. You should use light-colored laminate flooring in small rooms. The light-color would create a spatial illusion making the room look larger and feel warmer. Another plus point is that you can install laminate flooring over existing flooring.

Here is a tip. Always buy more carpet than you require, in case you make a bad cut you will not need to run back to store for some more.

Steps/Procedure:

1. Clear the whole room. Use a hammer and chisel or a small crowbar to remove present shoe moldings, and rubber base from beneath the toe kick. Remember, while removing the shoe molding try not to damage the wall and existing base molding.
2. Remove the flanges on radiator pipes only if it is necessary. After doing so, vacuum thoroughly and clean the floor.
3. Follow the instructions of the manufacturer to lay out the foam underlayment correctly. You can save time on installation by buying flooring with pre-attached underlayment. Thus, you will not need to buy new carpet.
4. Commence hardwood flooring along the most noticeable and prominent wall in the room at all times. Accordingly, if the place is not of perfect square shape, the crooked cut will be concealed under the cabinet's toe kick. To keep the floors' remain straight and square, lay the laminate away from the wall because the wall might be not straight. Measure the width of one piece of flooring away from the wall. Add 1/4 inch to it. Make a line by the chalk across the room. Start the first set of flooring from the chalk line and line up everything after it.
5. Install the laminate flooring according to the manufacturer's instructions. Use the jigsaw to wedge any corner or pipe and Miter saw to cut the pieces in length. Set the height of the flooring in agreement with the height of the door.
6. Use the miter saw to cut the shoe molding. Nail the molding to the baseboard along the room with a brad gun. Fill any remaining holes with finishing putty.
7. Install rubber base under toe kicks. Cut the rubber base with the knife and stick it using an adhesive.
8. Install the transition strips wherever the floor meets to carpet or the tile. Cut the pieces to fit and install them with a tube of glue.