Hardwood Flooring Installation 101: Acclimation

Every hardwood products are affected by the surrounding environmental conditions. Acclimate the brand new flooring on the surface to be installed, back to standard living conditions while still in the boxes. In case the products are sealed in plastic, then open both ends of the boxes. Duration of time is not a determining factor.

The aim is to achieve a moisture balance or equilibrium between the new flooring and its environment before actual installation. That is, the humidity conditions and temperatures that will ideally be experienced after the new home moisture removal and the house is occupied. Hardwood flooring is manufactured to a moisture content between six percent and nine percent. If you use a temperature and humidity chart, 40% humidity develops a wood moisture content of 7.7%, which is in an average range.

In the North Eastern Regions like Europe, is the mid-point of the range that a home needs to be in after the new home moisture is eliminated. Other areas may require some acclimations to bring the wood down to 2% of the subflooring. The home should be as much as possible, climate controlled to an average humidity as close to 40%, since this range is the most healthy and comfortable for humans.

In most instances, floorings are ready to install immediately after purchasing. If your house environment falls within this range, the wood flooring will remain unchanged whether in your home or at the temperature controlled warehouse.

The Northeast countries have dry winter and very humid summer climatic conditions. If you acclimated flooring for too long in extreme dry winter conditions and fixed when it has shrunk, it would expand excessively and cup when the wet season arrives. When you acclimate the flooring to high humidity conditions and installed when it is extended, the floor would shrink excessively when the dry season returns resulting in significant gaps between boards.

If you have a structure on piers, a cottage that is not heated during winter, a crawl space, or any conditions that may be considered abnormal, please contact a qualified technician or certified institution. You must also understand that a wood-based subfloor has to be within, or around 2% moisture content of the hardwood flooring before proceeding with the installation process.

Having the wood flooring on the construction site before you meet these conditions will result in a change in dimensions, in particular, the ends. More so, if the humidity is above the recommended levels, the wood ends will absorb moisture first and expand. On the other hand, if the humidity levels were lower than that which is recommended in solid wood, the ends would shrink because of losing moisture. For engineered floorings, the top coat of timber would crack. Problems are therefore created unnecessarily in both cases.

Acclimation is very misunderstood. More often, people are always adamant that wood floorings need to sit in the house two to three weeks before installation to acclimate. Though this was right some time back before the wood was kiln dried when the flooring had to be kept in the house to complete the drying process, this has so far changed with technology. 

Hardwood Flooring Installation 101: Finishing

The durability of the hardwood floors can well be attached to the mere fact that they are resistant to soaking up liquid spills, making the finishing of the hardwood floors tight. A variety of finishes are available in the market, and the type decided on depends on how much exposed the floor is, the traffic experienced as well as the desired stain intensity.

Part 1

Preparing the area

The room to be finished is repaired such that it has to be devoid of any furniture, wall hangings and window treatments. A continuing floor into the closet is emptied.

Get rid of trims using a pry bar, into which a small wood is to be inserted to provide an advantage and prevent damages.

The room is to be protected from fumes and dust by using masking tape to seal all openings. The lighting fixtures are to be covered with trash bags and secured with masking tape. Dust and debris are vacuumed out. Black sports due to water sports are to be treated with a 50-50 bleach solution to eliminate any dark spots.

Part 2

Sanding the floor

An electric drum sander is the best tool to use in sanding. In case you do not have, you can rent from a facility providing such services or borrow from a neighbor.

The machine is tilted back on the onset, and once spinning begins, it gently lowered to the floor. Initially, the 20-60 grit rapper is the starting point, and this consequently rising as the job continues.

Sanding starts from the center of the room stretching outwards to the edges. It extends along the grain overlapping each pass by an inch for complete coverage. The natural flow of the wood is in the grain, held together by a tough line.

The process is to continue, consequently adjusting the grit to its finer gritting of sand paper. For most hardwood, sanding can occur up to almost four times. Thorough cleaning is then necessary before the next sanding session begins, taking care to vacuum and dry clean.

After the sanding activity, there is a need to ensure the floor is clean. Dry cleaning with a wet cloth follows vacuuming. For staining purposes, no sawdust should be seen around the floor.

Part 3

Staining the floor

Staining a floor can highlight the natural and real hues on the wooden floor as well as giving the floor a unique, colorful twist in the manner of appearance. Staining is however not necessary should the current color of the wooden floor be appealing just as it is. 

In choosing the stain type, the quality should come before quantity in the decision-making. Spending much on the gallon should not be much of a bother. When selecting the color, it is important to bear in mind that the color on the charts is not necessarily the color that is going to manifest itself on the floor, this because of fading because of soaking into the wood. 

Before staining, a durable floor sealant is to be applied. It helps do away with events of in even coverage. For the best product, soliciting the help of a professional is necessary.

Stain the floor generously using a brush, roller or rag. After about 15 minutes, using a piece of cloth, the excess stain is removed. The amount of dye to be used is put into a bucket and thoroughly stirred. Additionally, this also plays a part in even coverage. A thin layer is good enough for faster drying, unlike the thick stain layers.

For target results, many additional coats can be added as much as desired. Let each coat dry sufficiently. For water-based stains, 2-6 hours is the drying duration and for the oil-based stains, 6-10 hours is the drying period.

A polyurethane coat is worth considering. A softer finish is achievable with a natural protective barrier based look and can make the floor shine beside a semi-gloss finish. A paint roller is a necessary tool to apply the polyurethane followed by ample drying time. For added shine and protection, an extra coat would be required. Waxing and buffing can replace the polyurethane.

Part 4

Waxing and Buffing the Floor

Waxing seals the wooden floor. Buffing gets rid of the excess wax. It's  difficult and consumes a lot of time, but the effects on the floor are usually magnificent. Waxing and buffing can come before staining, after and without staining at all. Wax should be applied on the dry stained floor.

The right wax is essential. For an untreated floor, any finished product or wax labeled hardwood can do. Some popular ones include the beeswax and the polyurethane found in local stores. All these products pose different appearances and as such, the selection should be a keen process.

The wax is to dry completely, and it could take about 30 minutes or more based on the weather conditions. After about 10 minutes of natural drying, a fan can be used to enhance the drying. Pointing the fan directly to the floor might interfere with the adhesion and thus discouraged.

Buff the floor. It involves eliminating wax on the floor by use of a clean towel. Hand buffing is the way to go about it but putting the towel around a mop can help work without having to go down on all fours.

Once it is done, the process is repeated at least three times for perfect waxing results.  This necessary as it leads to resilient layers protecting the floor. It also helps in the durability purposes of the floor.

Hardwood Flooring Installation 101: How Much Does It Cost?

Besides being one of the few that boost property value, hardwoods are also among the best flooring options because they are beautiful and durable as well. The wood flooring option exists in a variety of designs and finishes, for prospecting users. There exists engineered and solid wood beside the pre-finished and site finished woods. This article considers the costs and materials involved in the installation of the pre-finished hardwood floor in a room of averagely 250 square feet. 

The pricing estimate relies on the assumptions that the owner will go for low costs and avoid costs such as 

• Costs attached to the removal of older flooring. 
• Replacement or removal of furniture. 

The installation of hardwood flooring can be tackled as a DIY project without many issues. More so, for a property owner, oriented at personally handling the installation process, the wisest option would be to select or go for a pre-finished wood. This because of the nature of the warranty involved, as it is a long one. 

The costs break down:

The average material costs associated with the particular project includes

• The prep works to get the old floor ready for new installation.  This calls for a thorough assessment of the preexisting sub floor and should by any chance the plywood need replacement, the costs involved in the project would be as follows:  forever plywood of about 4'×8' the price would be $22. 
• The installation of the newly acquired flooring, irrespective of whether the property owners will personally be involved in the installation process or not, qualified personnel call for the collection and consolidation of all the necessary tools and equipment in the room to be refurbished about a week before the actual installation project begins. The style and design chose directly impacts on the costs but as per hardwoodinstaller.com, an average of $8.5 for each square feet caters for placement of foam underlays or vapor barriers. 
• Additionally, for a room with the measurements mentioned above, this would translate to about $2063 and suppose the installation was a DIY project, an assumption of about $1250 for the material cost would be in order, and this can be broken down to a price of $4-$6 for every square foot.
• Any recommended sealants or cleansers, adhesive or glue and an insulating underlay will fall under the additional materials costs. It is a fact that a manufacturers treatment is mandatory for all new installations to help in arriving at the best and desired results. The costs per container of the treatment would thus be about $20 to acquire one.

Some other charges and consideration include:

• All those who are big fans of the DIY ascertain that the process involved in the replacement of the sub flooring is way above their skill level and as such solicit carpenters help to assist in tackling the installation of concrete bases, plywood, and the new joints. These services are likely to cost about $20-$35 for each hour worked and the job can and is likely to take more than a whole business day to complete efficiently. 
• The dangers of the fumes attached to the installation are noxious and as such, some homeowners tend to vacate the premises during the installation periods. If sealing off the home area is not a possibility, it is prudent to budget for a day or two in the hotel. 

Hardwood Flooring Installation 101: Moisture Testing

Establishing the moisture content is a critical component of quality control in hardwood flooring installation process. Therefore, every floor installer has to be informed of the amount of moisture content on subfloors and the wood.

Moisture humidistats and meters are the most important performance tools. If your installer does not have any of these tools, then they are obviously not aware of the significant relationship between moisture and wood. Continuing with an installation process constitutes the acceptance of the work site conditions by the installer or technician.

A wood-based subfloor should be within an average 2% moisture content of hardwood flooring. The average humidity of the house must be between thirty to fifty percent of solid wood and thirty-five to fifty-five percent for engineered hardwood before, during and after the installation job. A minimum reading of 10 moisture taken per 500 square feet at intervals of four0inches apart, recording the lowest and highest measurements.

There are numerous kinds and brands of moisture reading meters. The Pin-type readers penetrate into the wood to get the moisture reading. Non-destructive pin-less meters obtain moisture measurements without penetrating the wood. More often, the pin-less meter readers give readings, which are not accurate entirely, but provides a fair reading of moisture content. Meters that are more expensive on the other hand have adjustable settings thus more precise. However, glues in the subfloor affect them.

The only ideal and accurate method of measuring the moisture content of wood by weighing the piece of wood then let it dry until there is no moisture remaining in it. Weigh the dry piece, less the dry wood weight from the wet wood weight, and divided by the dry weight.

MC = [(initial weight- dry weight)/ dry weight] x 100%

Example: 400 grams - 370 grams = 30 grams, divided by 370 grams x 100 = 8.1percentage moisture content.

Hygrometers or humidistats are readily available for purchase. Buying and using two units will maintain accurate results. Take and note these readings throughout the job.

Before testing a concrete slab, it should be at least forty-five days old. Use a Calcium Chloride test, which is always accessible at The Big Box Stores. The moisture level readings obtained using the Calcium Chloride test must not exceed a maximum of 3lb per 1000 square feet.

The time duration taken by concrete to cure can cause delays on the job site. A wall or concrete slab in the best drying conditions with a large dehumidifier in operation will dry at approximately one-inch per month. Without these circumstances, the concrete wall or slab may only dry at a quarter inch per month. Concrete heals by hydration when moisture reacts with cement powder, providing the concrete its strength. However, the mixture always contains more water than is required for hydration reaction, becoming more prevalent with the utilization of lightweight aggregate that tends to retain moisture. In many floor slabs, there could be up to fifty gallons of extra water for every cubic yard of the pour. Using a dehumidifier with constant airflow over the plate surface will fasten the process. When the slab dries, it is recommended to use a concrete sealer or a recommended adhesive.

Radiant heating in such floors, therefore, must be turned on to a minimum temperature of 22 degrees, seven days prior, to eliminate residual moisture before installing wood flooring.

Hardwood Flooring Installation 101: Wood Subfloor Preparation

An ideal wood flooring installation starts with a proper subfloor preparation. If this is installed poorly, the subfloor will develop costly and time wasting problems down the line. Therefore, do not worry yourself with the time required, instead, focus on getting the job right. A DIY subfloor preparation needs time, but it is a simple process.  On that note, this will assist you to avoid cupping, squeaks, gapping, a loose floor and much more.

Before you commence, make sure you have gathered the necessary materials required as nothing slows down a job like numerous trips to the flooring outlet.

Tools and supplies for subfloor preparation:

• Circular saw 
• Hearing protection
• Eyeglasses or goggles
• Crowbar 
• Knee pads
• Respirator
• 15-pound asphalt felt paper
• Plywood or OSB
• Sander
• Gloves
• Nail gun/nails or screw gun/screws
• Broom or vacuum
• Moisture meter
• Hammer
• Staple gun or hammer stapler
• Chalk line and chalk
• 6-foot or longer straightedge

DIY subfloor preparation steps:

Step 1

Pull up the current flooring or carpeting.  In case you have a particle board as a layer, you need to remove it as well.  An upper layer of particleboard is a disappointment for all flooring options except floating floors.

Step 2

Check the joists for direction and spacing. Your joist should run perpendicular to your planking, and should be a maximum of nineteen inches apart.  If the distance between planking is above nineteen inches, then you will need to brace between the joints.

Step 3

After getting rid of the carpeting, tack strips, pad, and baseboards, your subfloor should be clearly visible.  Perform an excellent job when cleaning up any old glue or debris off your subfloor.  Counter-check for protruding squeaks and nails.  Install the new subfloor layer perpendicular to the already existing layer of subfloor.  Using chalk lines, mark on the new layer where joists located underneath.

Step 4

Tighten the new plywood. Either do this with a screw or nail gun. Space your fasteners at least six inches along panel ends, and at least twelve inches along intermediate support frames. On the other hand, the spacing between the panels should be about an eighth of an inch.

Step 5

Sand all the seams to make sure they connect smoothly to one another.  After that, check to ensure all fasteners are secure and not in any way sticking out.

Step 6

Check flatness all over the subfloor.  Use either a level or a straight two by four, pushing it across the floor to ensure there are no gaps.  It is not mandatory that the floor is level, but it must be flat. Your floor needs are flat to within a quarter inch over a ten-feet or three-sixteenth inch over six feet.

Step 7

It is equally important that you confirm the level of moisture in the subfloor. A damp subfloor may bring about buckles on your hardwood flooring. Record moisture measurements at different places all over the surface. In as much as you can record the moisture level and dates on the floor, it is also ideal to do the same in your job logs. A flooring expert can assist you in determining the maximum moisture that should be in your subfloor before you lay down your laminate or hardwood. Confirm the manufacturer manual for allowable moisture levels for the floor you are laying.

Step 8

Put down the moisture barrier. The sides should overlap a few inches so flooring will not snag when racked.  Staple down the paper.

Lastly, as your final step in the preparation of your plywood subfloor, remark the joists so the flooring expert can plan best on how to install the laminate or hardwood.

A Definitive Guide to Laying Laminate Flooring

Laminate flooring can change the look of your room. So what is stopping you? Learn to install new laminate flooring.

Materials Required:

• Laminate flooring
• A shoe molding.
• Finishing putty to match
• Self-stick rubber base, black color.
• Transition strips a.k.a thresholds
• Miter saw with laminate blade
• Foam underlayment if there is not a pre-attached tape.
• Brad gun/ hammer and brad nails
• 90 degree/right angle square
• A compressor
• Hammer
• Crowbar (small and flat)
• Chalk line
• Jigsaw
• Knife
• Pencil
• Rubber mallet

Benefits from Lamination Flooring

Laminate flooring is a composite material which is similar to plastic, so it is scratch-resistant. Also, it does not wear and tears like hardwood lasting nearly for decades. The Flooring has a click and locks together system, making it simpler to install. You should use light-colored laminate flooring in small rooms. The light-color would create a spatial illusion making the room look larger and feel warmer. Another plus point is that you can install laminate flooring over existing flooring.

Here is a tip. Always buy more carpet than you require, in case you make a bad cut you will not need to run back to store for some more.

Steps/Procedure:

1. Clear the whole room. Use a hammer and chisel or a small crowbar to remove present shoe moldings, and rubber base from beneath the toe kick. Remember, while removing the shoe molding try not to damage the wall and existing base molding.
2. Remove the flanges on radiator pipes only if it is necessary. After doing so, vacuum thoroughly and clean the floor.
3. Follow the instructions of the manufacturer to lay out the foam underlayment correctly. You can save time on installation by buying flooring with pre-attached underlayment. Thus, you will not need to buy new carpet.
4. Commence hardwood flooring along the most noticeable and prominent wall in the room at all times. Accordingly, if the place is not of perfect square shape, the crooked cut will be concealed under the cabinet's toe kick. To keep the floors' remain straight and square, lay the laminate away from the wall because the wall might be not straight. Measure the width of one piece of flooring away from the wall. Add 1/4 inch to it. Make a line by the chalk across the room. Start the first set of flooring from the chalk line and line up everything after it.
5. Install the laminate flooring according to the manufacturer's instructions. Use the jigsaw to wedge any corner or pipe and Miter saw to cut the pieces in length. Set the height of the flooring in agreement with the height of the door.
6. Use the miter saw to cut the shoe molding. Nail the molding to the baseboard along the room with a brad gun. Fill any remaining holes with finishing putty.
7. Install rubber base under toe kicks. Cut the rubber base with the knife and stick it using an adhesive.
8. Install the transition strips wherever the floor meets to carpet or the tile. Cut the pieces to fit and install them with a tube of glue.